On being a vulnerable adult learner
As a teenager, I spent hours on the beach as a “wave widow” to boyfriends and male friends. While I had dabbled, it wasn’t until my mid-20s that I felt driven to get out there myself. There was nothing like the thrill of my first green water wave to light the fires of ambition to proceed further. The frustrations of being a vulnerable adult learner (VAL) provided a further push to get to the next level. And eventually, I found myself improving quickly.
I would paddle out in a group of guys to find another girl dotted within the crowd. We would lock eyes as if to say, “I see you. I connect with you”. Inevitably we would introduce ourselves. I found myself canceling plans with my city friends and prioritising surf reports and trips. I had caught the bug and even had a like-minded crew!
Moving forward, I cannot visualise a life without surfing in it. I find inspiration in older ladies like the Instagram famous @surfersusie66, who are just getting out there and having fun. I want to continue to improve, but I also hope to take the pressure off myself. Regardless of how I proceed, it is evident that surfing will be a life-long journey for me
